Naples

“Resto, resto a letto”(it means: “stay, stay in bed”) it’s a line from one of my favourite songs (pigro) by Pino Daniele. When i close my eyes, everything almost becomes a blur save for that melodic voice that seems to bring down all these walls i endeavoured to put up. He was an acclaimed singer and song writer who’s music varied from Italian, blues and even jazz. A voice synonymous to no other- he was the pride of Naples.

A city that is chaotic, vibrant and bursting with energy. It’s the regional capital of Campania located south of Italy with the historical city centre being considered a UNESCO world heritage site. So having lived in Switzerland for 2 years before moving to Naples; i must say the warm weather was very much welcome! Then of course there was the food, the people and overall vibe that will at some point rub off on you.

There are so many things to love about this place. A lot that you will never get to explore, enjoy and even fall in love with – if you don’t decide to close your ears to all else and take a chance to visit this historical and culinary rich city, pregnant with ‘life’ as you may have never lived it before!

There are places you will visit and they will remain with you for whichever reason. Naples awoke a hunger in me to live. Not the way we have seemingly been preconditioned to. I mean getting out of my safe place to discover places, food and people. Getting ‘full’ on simple aspects of life like taking a 30 minute drive from Torre Annunziata to Naples to meet friends at a gelateria. Then stand outside leaning on cars or sitting on stairs cases as we fill the cool evening air with laughter and conversation about things i can hardly remember. But i remember those moments and how they made me feel.

“Naples awoke a hunger in me to live”

One time Francesco’s very good friend Alessandro invited us over to a restaurant where his friend was performing. At first glance of the outer appearance i was disappointed. But like many other restaurants and homes in Naples, looks are deceiving. It was a small space of about 20 tables, mellow lights and a small stage at the front. I remember drinking wine while filling up on plater after plater of friturra (an assorted plate of fried appetisers: arancini, croquette among others). And from time to time nudging Francesco for translation. Later that night, we of course passed by a pasticceria for dessert which was a cornetto stuffed with your choice of chocolate bar. Then into the car we drove back and i remember feeling so glad i hadn’t chosen to stay at home.

But there’s more to Naples than the Vesuvius and margarita pizza among many other things they are known for. And while you may argue that it cannot compare to Rome or other cities flocking with tourists, i insist that it has it’s own charm. It may not have the Vatican or Spanish steps from Rome, the artistic collections in Florence from the most celebrated Italian artists like Michaelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci but these are some of what Naples has to offer you:

Museo di San Martino

This museum houses the ‘Veiled Christ’. A sculpture of Jesus laying on his back with a shroud over his entire body and is overwhelmingly realistic.

Museo Archeologico Nazionale

Is a treasure chest with pieces dating back to the 17th century and a connection to Charles III of Bourbon. According to the museum the collections “were enriched with the acquisition of finds from excavations in the sites of Campania and Southern Italy and private collections”.

Palazzo reale di Napoli

Is a palace that goes back to the 16th century when it’s construction began. Everything has been so impressively preserved it feels like a whole new world as soon as you walk through its doors. Their website is currently non-functional, the above link takes you to the Ministry of culture website which gives some background information on the palace.

Catacombs of Napoli

I have yet to visit as I am not a big fan of dark tourism. However, others may deem this a place of solace. Why? I guess death can also be interpreted as the dead gaining freedom from earthly bondage be it material or other. Should you visit please let us know how it was for you.

Duomo di Napoli

Is the main church of Napoli and an extraordinary work of art.

Napoli sotteranea

Napoli underground is 35 metres deep with a history of life 2400 years ago, do i have your interest piqued now?

A few more bits to help with your visit:

Okay, but now can we talk more about the food?…

Where do i start? Because i really want to get your whet your appetite. I’m a sucker for sweet things so let’s start there.

Oh, you sweet thing…

In almost every neighbourhood there is a pasticceria (pastry shop). It could be a fancy one or not but there are certain options that are to be obviously expected- and those are? Rum baba (my all time favourite), this is a soft pastry shaped like a penis/microphone (i kid you not) or champagne cork drenched in a rum syrup. Eh ehm my friend Evija thinks its shaped as a mushroom, what do you think?

Then you have your other usual suspects like the cannoli, sfogliatella and more. Where can you go get some? Head off to Gran Caffé Gambrinus. In the mood for some gelato? No, i mean some really really mind blowing memorable getalo that will carve a place in your heart and never leave? Then head to Gelateria del gallo and you will not be disappointed.

And like pizza, coffee here is a religion- this is not the place to make bad coffee. Be adventurous and try the ginseng coffee. Yes, I know; i know you probably wasn’t expecting that but it is a well known secret. I’m scratching the back of my head trying to come up with the right word to describe this…………….

If it’s a warm sunny day then try some caffe shakerato. It is an upgrade of iced coffee (depending on how and where it’s made). Some taste so good i could swear they added a dash of cream and hazelnut syrup in there.

Better than a croissant? No way!

Oh yes way! And while we’re still on the topic of coffee. Please do not start your morning with toast because it’s unforgivable. At least not when you’re here. Go to your nearest cafe and order a good shot of espresso and a cornetto. It is the more fragrant, less buttery and flaky version of a croissant. When in Rome …. you know how it goes. I have tried to make some at home but instead came up with these super soft and ambrosial orange buns for those cornetto craving moments. I once had a cornetto from a cafe conveniently close to Fran’s home in Torre Annunziata. And since then, i will not have anything else for breakfast when there. It had a mild scent of orange, with a smooth chocolate filling which when paired with a good cup of cappuccino was the only worthy way to start a morning.

I have been known to overindulge. By that I mean having dessert for breakfast, the culprit being the famously infamous graffe Napoletane. This is a donut-shaped pastry made from flour and mashed potatoes. It is then deep-fried and rolled in a generous amount of caster sugar. If you want to be really naughty you could have one with a chocolate filling. However, be warned as you may end up having more than one.

What else?

Naples is known for it’s widely acclaimed and savoured San Marzano tomatoes which are grown on the foothills of volcanic mount Vesuvius. (Rumor has it that it’s the rich soil, sun and air from the sea that give these tomatoes their inimitable characteristics). It also boasts mozzarella di bufala which most love to enjoy fresh. Served with tomato, basil, a light drizzle of olive oil, a sprinkle of salt and freshly ground black pepper. If soft and milky isn’t up your alley then you have the option of mozzarella affumicatta (smoked mozzarella) which i am getting emotional just thinking off.

Yes, we couldn’t leave without mention of Pizza. The typical one in Naples is quite soft and elastic. Has raised edges with signs of charred dough from baking in an extremely hot stone oven. Your usual topping is mozzarella di bufala and tomato with fresh basil leaves. Somewhat like a Napoletana pizza but NOT quite!

It’s the holy grail of pizza!

Let’s get one thing straight, pizza Napoletana is not just pizza, it is a huge deal! Big enough that there are specifications you must follow in order to call your pizza Napoletana. What are they? The dough has to be made with soft wheat flour type “00”, topped with either San Marzano or Roma tomatoes and mozzarella di bufala campagnia which is also DOP (Protected Designation of Origin”) protected. You would have to stretch it by hand maintaining a height of 1-2cm on the border and not over 0.4cm in the centre. After which it must be baked between 60-90 seconds in a wooden fire oven and not more. Pizza Napoletana is highly regarded and was included in UNESCO’S list of intangible cultural heritage.

But there’s more

However pizza evolved decades ago into pizza fritta, meaning fried pizza which is inexplicably decadent! Made well, it will have a light golden thin dough. And when you bite into it a stream of tomato mixed with milky mozzarella flows over. I like to smuggle in a leaf or two of basil for a fresh and peppery scent. You absolutely must try this succulent street food before you leave. And my other guilty pleasure is served in a paper cone. Heaped with golden crispy battered fried seafood and something i cannot get enough of: fried dough. How something so simple could be so delicious is beyond me.

Iconic pizzeria’s to visit are Sorbillo, but prepare to wait a while if you don’t make it by the time they open their doors. And please don’t think of straying to the tempting stores close by for souvenirs. Why? Well, once your table is ready and you’re nowhere to be found it’s back of the queue for you. I’m almost sure no one else will be willing to let you skip the line- sorry. Now if you thought good food is synonymous to high end interior design then this next place will prove you wrong. It also goes to prove that you can choose one thing, do it so well and people will see the value and appreciate it. This place is Pizzeria da Michelle, it’s a small humble restaurant in a busy chaotic city centre that has only 2 (marinara or margherita pizza) options in their menu.

Nope it’s not over yet. Come over in Christmas and you will will get fattened from the hours on end lunches and dinners which end in Neapolitan Christmas cookies that are worth losing a tooth for.

It’s hard to pick just one that i like to dig my teeth into. There’s brutti mi buoni (which means “ugly but good/nice). They are made of nuts, egg whites and sugar. If you prefer something more chocolatey there’s Mostaccioli which are tough as a brick and oh sooo good!!!! Made with a spice mix, usual cookie suspects: sugar, flour and its all then dipped in fine chocolate after baking. So pack your bags and consider the possibility that you may not want to go back home.