At some point in early parenthood, you will find yourself flicking through Disney channels or Youtube for nursery rhymes or even lullabies. This is how I came across ‘baby shark’. During one of my perfunctory Q&A with Jenny’s carer at the nursery, I asked how she had been. She goes on to recount how much fun my little one had AND how much her face lights up at the sound of the song ‘baby shark’. As you probably know by now, Jenny isn’t the only one who smiles with glee and even promises to eat her veg if she can have another minute of baby shark. Cut a long story short, this is one of the main reasons we decided to make sure we didn’t leave Portugal without visiting Oceanario.

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Eh ehm there is also that little fact of it being the largest indoor aquarium in Europe! But first of, some recognition to Takashi Amano. He was a landscape photographer who played a major role in the plant design of the aquariums at Oceanario.

To say i was wowed doesn’t equate my reaction. I had all sorts of questions running through my mind about how in the world it was all made and kept so pristine! Call me silly but the whole time i was wondering how come i have yet to see any fish getting jumped by a shark.

Why go to Oceanario?

You will get to see 8000 animals and plants from 500 species all under one roof. I must admit you will never find me enjoying documentaries on animals or plants unless they are talking about whipping it up on a plate. And I wasn’t exactly all that excited about going to Oceanario, to be honest but once I got there I was so intrigued and just couldn’t keep myself from saying “wow” to this and that.

You can get to book a guided tour of both the permanent and temporary exhibitions. There is so much to see that chances are unless you’re a specialist in the field then you will run into all kinds of species you never saw or heard of. We didn’t have a guide and just did a few rounds, though I have to say finding the toilet was like walking through a maze – which I guess for some may be fun. But for a pregnant woman about to burst, not so much. They do have baby changing rooms which are a huge plus!

If you’re lucky enough to live in the area you can organise to have your little one’s birthday party there.

You can book to enjoy a baby concert which is performed in front of a mesmerizing aquarium background. You would need to pay for this. I also did read something about a sleepover with sharks for kids? Hahahaha I’m not sure about you but this sounds nothing close to a scenario that would have me sleep in peace. I mean yes you know that the glass won’t break but come on guys, could you fall asleep with the thought of a shark lurking behind glass near you? Call me a wuss but you couldn’t get me to buy this package! Should anyone have the guts to do this then please let us know how it went.

All in all, this is definitely one place I would recommend you visit when in Lisbon. Whether you have kids or not, or you’re into marine biology. They also have a mini theatre showcasing ‘behind the scenes’ footage of what goes into the aquarium upkeep. Who would have thought food preparation for fish could be so intricate and meticulous?

Oh yeah, there is also a restaurant and souvenir shop for you to splurge. Even the design for this was so creatively thought out. A ‘sea life’ theme with shipwrecked boats and a ceiling that looked like sea waves and fish.

Read more about our short stop in Lisbon and Sesimbra

Replace this canal with a sea view, now take me to the beach…

So far I have only been to the beaches in the south of Italy. Positano, Amalfi, Sorrento, Capri, and others- I love you all still so much but it was time to explore more. We drove from Lisbon to Sesimbra which was about an hour’s drive. With Pino Daniele serenading Jenny to sleep; I lay back and let my thoughts wander off to what my unborn Sara would look like. I talked to her while feeling for kicks, and every so often stole glances at THE man.

Sesimbra was recommended to us by his barber. After a quick deliberation which I must add did not conclude in my favor; we ended up at this little gem that gets too little praise than it deserves. Nestled in the Setubal District; with the Serra da Arrabida national park looming over this serene and picturesque fishing town. Sesimbra is where you go to get some sun, lot’s of chill time and make friends. Yes, they are extremely friendly there.

You will not miss to see your usual houses decorated with azulejos which i cannot seem to get enough of.

Now let me put it out there; if you’re looking for something a bit more loud and intense then this isn’t the place. I recommend it if you want some quiet village type environment and if you love fish.

A bit of a contradiction to hear a hospitality graduate rave with excitement about lodging options which have caused quite a bit of disruption in the industry but i guess my hypocrisy knows no bounds. We stayed in a holiday home which was most suitable having a toddler and all. It just made things a whole lot easier as we had the whole place to ourselves and could do laundry at no extra charges and most importantly cook.

Yes, I know most might not want to touch foot in the kitchen when on vacation but picture this scenario. You wake up and have breakfast whenever you want because the buffet is always open. Then make a sandwich or two, pack that up with some pre-cooled water and leisurely make your way to the beach. When you get there; you sprawl on the beach towel and soak up some sun or dive in for some of that healing salt.

Soon you’re hungry and that packed lunch comes in handy. Crave something sweet so you walk up to the little kiosk by the shore for some ice cream or popsicle for the little ones. It’s time to head back, you get up and shake the sand off and walk back not having to worry that the restaurant is closed. You get home and quickly whip up some pasta with fresh seafood while the little one plays (and you don’t have to worry about other guests being disturbed or giving you ‘angry bird’ eyes). After-which you all have a siesta in preparation for doing it all again. Or maybe dining out. See what I mean? Freedom

Let’s talk food

First stop, breakfast of course!!! Something this grumpy non-morning person cannot do without! It was 7:30 am as the rest of the fishermen set sail in hope of a bountiful catch I bet. A different kind of morning, one I could probably get used to. But who wouldn’t if they had that beautiful tranquil view to wake up to. Some early mornings were spent with coffee in hand slouched on the sofa thinking of many things or nothing at all. My phone was almost non-existent and I liked it that way.

I slid the large glass balcony doors to get a whiff of the fresh ocean breeze which smelled a little like seaweed and fish. Crawling back onto the sofa to enjoy the view shielded from the cold air, I tried hard to enjoy yet another cup of weak coffee. As seemed to be the norm, I had dozed off to be woken up for lunch. Our pact was to pack in as many seafood delicacies as we could before returning home!

There are plenty of small and intimate family-style owned restaurants from which to choose from. After eating fish on almost a daily basis we needed a break and had a kebab which believe it or not was very delicious. If you are like me and prefer the meat nicely browned with a little crunch here and there then make sure to tell them so. No need to worry Dusseldorf, you still gave me my best one yet but credit must be given where deserved!

If you are in the mood for a cocktail and a mind-blowing view then head over to the tap house restaurant. It serves Portuguese and what one might define as European food. Seems that starters here almost always include a fish pâté (some restaurants offer this for free). I normally shy away from pâtés however I must admit after a lot of coaxing from Fran I tried it and it was so good I’m salivating as I write. Or could it just be that I’m hungry? Oh well, you must try the various pâté options when in Portugal for sure. If anything we did make a run to Aldi for a couple of tins to share back home. There is a wide variety so you’re sure to come across something you like. What we had at the restaurant was a spiced up tuna pâté served alongside sourdough bread.

Now one thing I really loved about the restaurant is the view as it’s placed right in front of the beach so your eyes can feast on the tranquil or sometimes stormy sea and the shore from one end to the other. It is also a bar, I cannot speak much about this because i was on a dry spell.

Taberna Isaias came highly recommended so we dropped by as it was also a 5-minute walk from the house. It was lunchtime so we had to wait almost 30 minutes before we were ushered in. When you walk in there are seats to your right and a small bar to your left and further down to your left is another compartment or area which could fit in another 40 or so. The walls are filled with what seems to be souvenir plates either from travel or guests- I don’t know which, but that made it a little homier. (Excuse the poor images- kind f hard to stand in a crowded restaurant at lunchtime taking pictures of plates on a wall. I do get a little shy so …)

In front of us was a little window separating the dining area to the kitchen. Inside were women in headscarves and simply floured dresses with aprons preparing sides from french fries, salad, and potatoes which would then be passed through as the men came to deliver the fish that had been grilled in a grill outside connected to the restaurant.

We ordered the swordfish and an array of other fish which I must sadly say left me unhappy. I will not get into the details but will say there were many other little family-owned restaurants with much better to offer. It could be that we were just unlucky or they were overwhelmed by the busy lunchtime schedule. If you have a sweet tooth then just opposite tap house restaurant is a dessert take away with jaw-dropping delicious churros and pancakes.

When night falls, the streets are deserted save for a handful of people and a car or two every few intervals. It’s deafeningly silent but I don’t mind as my ears are filled with the sound of wave after wave crashing onto the shores and rocks- and for a few seconds my mind is blank; something I strive to do every day back home. The wind is cool and the weather slightly warm, good enough to lean over the balcony or just sit and meditate.

The weather was unforgiving during this trip, it mostly rained so whenever we could we escape in search of sun or warmth. We drove uphill to castelo de Sesimbra (Sesimbra castle) which served a breathtaking view of Sesimbra.

What I would do differently when we return would be to definitely ‘town hop’ on a daily basis. This is because there is so much to see and you have the chance to visit quite a few tourist locations because they are not too far from each other- in Portugal I mean. We also stayed 2 nights in Lisbon which I do not think we would have managed to see everything in 2 weeks even. But we did manage to visit Oceanario de Lisboa which you absolutely must visit when in Lisbon.

A city of sun, smiles and …

I am not sure we should have gone on this trip just yet. We were running out of time, i was heading to the point of hitting the ‘no fly list‘ when we just up and decided to head off to Portugal while the sun was still up. I’m sorry Portugal, you hadn’t been in my bucket list but i’m glad that the very persistent Francesco talked me into coming over. The journey to you was a bit much with the flight having been delayed for 3 hours.

That, coupled with me being almost 28 weeks expectant (yes, i wasn’t exactly ripe for delivery however; i hope my other mamma’s will agree that this is the time you want to just laze around and not do anything! Then again, that feeling lasted throughout the whole pregnancy). Top that with a toddler who cannot sit still spelled a recipe for disaster. Good thing i had downloaded enough Masha and the bear for the duration of the flight.

It was nightfall when we arrived leaving less to see, but I didn’t mind too much. By that time I just wanted to crawl into a bed and snore the fatigue off. Is it just me who did a lot of that while expectant? After an endless uphill and downhill search for our rental home, we stopped by the side of the road, which had very little parking space. If anything, I’m pretty sure we were parked on the road. Funny story – we are on the main road with a queue of cars behind us waiting for the green light. They start honking, and we got frustrated because the guy in front of us didn’t seem to get the hint. So we squeeze out from behind him and onto the next lane, only to realize the car had been parked there. And this was not the first time this happened! Oh Lisbon, the funny stories I have to share about you…

It was quite chilly for a summer night as we waited outside with me clutching onto Jenny afraid she may go around playing and tumble down the steep countless steps ( seems to be the norm, the steps i mean). A panting and heaving Fran walks back saying we would need to walk the rest of the way.

I have never felt so sorry for this poor man as i watched him struggle with one excessively large and heavy suitcase after another. And we weren’t done yet as he then had to climb up another couple flight of stairs to get to the penthouse. Word to the wise: If you will not be travelling light, please make sure your accommodation is accessible by car and that they have an elevator. Then cross your fingers and hope it will still be functional when you arrive All this means it that most places we saw and drove through in Lisbon were uphill. The last thing you need after a long flight or any journey at all is to have to sweat off the last of your energy reserve on pulling heavy luggage uphill/stairs.

Anyway, morning broke and i got a better view of houses decorated with colourful tiles called azulejos. Compactly built with kitchens overlooking balconies or other, which to be frank i found to be intrusive. I could see into our neighbours kitchen and them into our living room with our other neighbours managing a peak into out bedroom. Then again, if you live alone a chat, drink or two with your ‘balcony buddy from time to time could lessen the loneliness.

It was a warm sunny day but my now swollen feet weren’t as thrilled as they seemed to be struggling to stay within the confines of my string sandals. The streets weren’t as crowded as I had anticipated, what with it being summer and all. The night before’s dinner was a simple panini which left me famished and all I could think of was how to make those hunger pangs disappear and fast!!!

Sweet surprise…

We somewhat leisurely (there was only so much rushing poor me could handle) made our way to Uncle George Cafe which seemed to have good online reviews. It was small and cozy with pictures on the wall. Plastic bird nest decorations hanging from the ceiling and mellow jazz music in the background. With two gentle friendly faces behind a counter showcasing pastries- most of which i hadn’t seen before. So i went on to make an order only to realise that they only accept cash! This is one inconvenience that you will come across a lot while in Portugal. So have some cash on hand people!

Theresa detects my disappointment- or perhaps it was the sad looking 2-year-old seated by the window with her pink teddy. But she then offers for me to proceed with my order and make the payment tomorrow. And this took me by utter surprise! Because not even in my home town have I had the grocer agree for me to pay later even though she knows I live less than 100 meters away!

Jenny wanted a coconut brioche and Theresa’s sincerity was yet again proven when she told us that we can order them though they weren’t fresh. They were non the less delicious with a mild coconut scent and slightly sweet, soft crumb.

Fran had a toastie with ham and cheese which seems to be on all menu’s in cafe’s around here. The coffee was unfortunately quite weak considering we ordered their strongest brew. A short walk around the city, play hide and seek around monuments here and there. The never tired Jenny fearlessly joining street dancers (you’ve gotta love children’s easy going ways sometimes) and it was now time for some coffee and dessert.

Indulge my sweet tooth

There were many dessert options that i liked and would definitely recommend you give a try. My favourite being a moist coconut macaroon half dipped in chocolate. Yes, i fell oh so deep into temptation here! The plan was to buy a few and save them for the flight back home however they didn’t make it to the airport. 

I think one if not the most popular food item that Portugal is known for is Pastel de nata. A custard tart encased in a carefully crafted layered golden brown pastry. It makes quite a few people’s mouth water but as i am no big fan of custard desserts (never say never because i might just come at you with a recipe with it one day) i often just nibbled on the edges and passed on the filling. They also had these very thin almond pralines that had me ordering more before the waiter had taken a few steps back from delivering our other orders.

For breakfast we bought bread the night before instead of going to a cafe just so we could go at our own pace. This i believe proved to also be cost effective as we had an apartment and not hotel room. It also gives children plenty of room to run around while enjoying that homey feel.

In some, if not most pockets of this beautiful city it feels like time stood still. Buildings and remodelado trams that seem to have withstood the test of time still stand or run. I believe most would recommend you travel on the remodelado trams compared to a bus or car for sightseeing as you can run into some major traffic while other areas just being convenient for walking.

Portugal does have a rich history and was once a nation to be reckoned with. Then again other countries seem to be taking a few queues from her as she takes in more and more visitors seeking a new home away from home.

I will splurge at a flea market so don’t take me there. Well, you can if you have a few hours to spend and don’t mind an earful on how much I wish I had more space in my luggage for this and that.

And if you’re not shopping or sightseeing, chances are you are resting your now throbbing feet sipping ginjinha or ginja as others would call it. And for my fellow part-time non-alcohol drinking, readers let us toast to some chilled guaraná as we plot our next escapade.

When we were done at the famous Oceanario, it was getting late and as we had a flight the next morning that meant eating ‘light’. I’m laughing just reading that because i know what we intended is not what we actually did. We went to Pizzeria zero zero which was quite close by and i won’t even lie, we stuffed our faces! The lighting wasn’t the best so i did not take any pictures; or maybe i was too hungry to wait. Oh well, we had a margarita pizza for Fran and a four cheese pizza for me with Jenny having spaghetti with bolognese sauce.

Break away from Lisbon

The upside to renting a car while in Lisbon is that you can tour neighbouring towns which are just as popular. We took a 30 minute highway drive to Cascais which was very relaxed situated on the riviera. There are a lot of luxury hotels and you can also tell from the architecture of homes in the area that it is home to wealthy families who don’t mind commuting to Lisbon for work.

There is a small square filled with restaurants and souvenir shops, a beautiful garden with a carousel and a small shoreline to be enjoyed during the summer months.

Lisbon boasts some very charismatic restaurant designs. Another that i found to tag at me was located a stone throw away from Oceanario.

We will be visiting Portugal again and I will be updating this post with more tips as we didn’t really get to see much this time around. But do visit and feel free to let us know what you ate, saw, and just liked or otherwise! Happy travels!!!